The Trip of A Lifetime: Panama City

Mar 5, 2023 | Travel

Written by Ellen Frank Bayer

I have a great brother. When I told him I was planning to retire he gave me the surprise of a lifetime. He let me use his miles to go on a trip of my dreams. I had to choose between Madrid, Barcelona, Lisbon, London or Panama. I chose Panama, why?

It is close to New York, only a six hour plane ride, a one hour time difference, reasonably priced hotels, people speak English, and best of all, plenty of kosher eateries to choose from. There were activities for both me and my husband, a relaxing beach vibe for him and sightseeing opportunities for me, the endless wanderer. We only had a week – it was September and we had a family wedding to attend and Rosh Hashanah looming, but we made it work!

We planned our sightseeing excursions before we left with the help of Simi from GoKosher Panama, but Panama is also very accessible on your own. The morning after we arrived, we hurried to get to the Panama Canal by 8:00 am to view the parade of ships. Ships can only pass through the canal twice a day. They head west to east, from the Pacific to the Atlantic in the morning and in the afternoon they head east to west, from the Atlantic to the Pacific. While at the Miraflores Visitor Center, we heard the history of the Panama Canal in French, English and Spanish. We were mesmerized by the huge ships being guided through the narrow canal. The Miraflores Visitor Center is easily reached by public transportation or an Uber. We hired a private guide but it is really unnecessary. If you want to see the boats close up, I highly recommend taking a small boat to Monkey Island, which we did the following day. We were in the same waters as these huge ships, close enough to see the Canal, but far enough away to not be in their wake.

We spent the afternoon strolling in Panama Viejo, the oldest European settlement, built in 1519. Sunset is the best time to get those picture-perfect shots of the settlement. We also visited the Canal Museum, which contains original documents relating to the signing of the canal and is built in the renovated Grand Hotel.

It is worth a visit to the Canal Museum just to tour the building and look at the dynamic exhibits and use of space. Panama Viejo is also a great place to buy authentic handmade souvenirs from the Indigenous peoples of Panama. I bought some handcarved turtles and patchwork style potholders, which make great wall decor. If you are into homemade baskets, this is the place to buy them too. You can enjoy a drink in one of the many hotel bars or visit the kosher restaurant, Lula@Casco, located close to the Canal Museum.

After a busy day, we made a late reservation for the exciting restaurant, Blame Kiki. The restaurant was bubbling with many others celebrating birthdays and there was even entertainment! My husband was thrilled with the beautifully plated desert with his name that arrived accompanied by singing waiters. What a surprise it was on Friday night when someone recognized us and wished him happy birthday again. 

The next day brought more fun and wonderment on our trip to the Embera Village. Oliver, our tour guide from Monkey Adventures, taught us how to say hello in Embera, and became our personal photographer for the day.  We took a small “piragua” fishing boat and visited the village on the banks of the Chagres River. It was fascinating to see how intergenerational people live and learn about their traditions. 

There was more nature for the nature lover in me as we toured the Gamboa Rainforest.I always thought that sloths don’t move very fast, but the sloth we encountered did not live up to the slow reputation. When offered a hibiscus flower, the sloth came alive and very quickly ambulated along the vine with his trainer. We also toured a butterfly preserve and watched some “eye butterflies” devour some very soft bananas. One of the great thrills of the day was following an “ant parade” across the forest floor into a tree. It looked like the cartoon “the ants marched up to the top of the hill” come to life.

For another delicious and hearty kosher meal, I highly recommend Kava restaurant in Panama City. I had some wild sea bass, which was one of the best I ever had. The next day we did a little more touring on Monkey Island. We took another one of the “piragua” boats and actually got to sail alongside the ships waiting to enter the Panama Canal.

The monkeys are in the trees and it was our guide’s job to entice them with our bananas and grapes. The monkey who jumped into our boat was interested in something better and he found the bag of veggie straws I was saving for a late afternoon snack. We watched this monkey struggle with the bag as he banged it against the tree until he finally opened it. Once he took a sample, he was disappointed and dropped the rest of the veggie straws into the water.

For Shabbat we visited three different shuls. Friday night we were in a beautiful Sephardic synagogue, located just minutes from our hotel, the JW Marriott. The Synagoga Punta Pacifica is located right next to the Pacifica apartments. Friday night davening was very uplifting. Afterwards, one of the members actually walked us to Chabad so we wouldn’t get lost.

Shabbat morning we davened at the Sinagoga Beth El and prepaid for a delicious Shabbat lunch. We met travelers from around the United States, all of us exchanging our great experiences of the week.

The next two days were reserved for strictly rest and relaxation so we headed down to BuenaVentura Golf Resort. We purchased delicious food from the Super Kosher supermarket, a huge supermarket on the third floor of the Pacifico Mall. If you are staying at the Marriott Residence Inn, this supermarket is literally at your door.

Overall, Panama is a great place to vacation, good for any age, convenient, clean and safe. The prices are reasonable, you can travel with or without a guide, and have a great time.  

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