Where in the World Is…Bhutan?

Like stepping into a time machine, the first glance around the landscapes of Bhutan can stir the senses in a dizzying array of ancient charm, history and awe. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains exists the mysterious “Thunder Dragon Kingdom”.

On the continent of Asia, Bhutan is a landlocked country of approximately 800,000 people. At 27*3’ N and 90*30’ E, it is bordered on the north by China – Tibet being its closest neighbor. On the west is Nepal, and it is cradled in the south by India,  Bangladesh and Myanmar. A little further southeast is Thailand. The entire region is imbued in a rich Oriental/Asian culture as seen in the architecture, dress, customs and worldview. The main religious observance is Buddhism (there are many statues erected throughout the country) followed by Hinduism. 

Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan, a relatively large city, slightly more modern than the rural countryside. It boasts a small nightlife more appealing to the millennial population, who only recently embraced the digital age and social media. Of course, there is a wide difference of opinion between the younger generation and the older traditionalists.

Many changes have occurred during the past 18 years, especially with the monarchy. The King is very popular and forward thinking. He is only 46 years of age and has reigned since he was 28, after his father abdicated the throne. He has remained King by parliamentary elections. 

He credits his success to the people and the Bhutanese “Gross National Happiness” index. The phrase ‘gross national happiness’ was first coined by the 4th King of Bhutan, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, in 1972, when he declared, “Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross Domestic Product.” The holistic concept includes both traditional areas of socio-economic concern such as living standards, health and education and less traditional aspects of culture and psychological well-being.

Twenty different languages are spoken throughout Bhutan. The official language is Dzongkha. School subjects are taught in English. This is a welcoming sound to Anglo visitors and tourists. Not until the 1970s did Bhutan open its doors to foreign tourists. For hundreds of years the governing body purposely cut itself off from the world in an attempt to keep out unwelcome influences that would spoil their way of life. Even now, there are eyes and ears everywhere on alert for unwelcome foreign influences. 

Though the tourist trade has opened in recent years, it is still not so easy on the wallet to visit Bhutan. To help offset environmental expenses and to generate income, the government limits visas and charges a $250 per day fee to anyone from outside of South Asia.  Sources of revenue come from exporting electricity to India, timber, cement, agricultural products and handicrafts. The hotel trade also does well, with prices ranging from extreme budget rates at $30 per night in Thimphu to upwards of $500 per night for deluxe accommodations. In the rural areas, the prices are more reasonable, not to mention the exquisite vistas!

Expenses aside, there are additional challenges for the kosher traveler. There are no kosher restaurants, hotels or grocery shopping options available. The closest Chabad house is in India. If your base camp is there, day trips make it possible to still be able to eat. There are “Farm-to-Table” eateries that the locals can help you locate. These “Mom and Pop” enterprises are literally home-grown produce and usually only serve fresh plant-based whole food with local herbs and spices. Obviously, they won’t have a “teudat kashrut”. 

If you can overcome some of the obstacles, and you daydream of exotic lands far from home (22 hours by plane from New York and 16 hours from Israel) and have a little wanderlust in your veins, this could be an amazing experience. From the magnificent views, the architecture, to the people themselves and their “Gross National Happiness”.