November Travel Guide: Nahal Tekoa, Valley of Monks and Kings
Written by Susannah Schild
The Holy City of Jerusalem lies in a mountainous region, full of thick forests, hills, and deep green valleys. But just east of the city, the desert welcomes explorers into a world of dramatic beauty and rich history.
Nahal Tekoa is located on the very edge of this region, on the ridge between the Jerusalem Mountains and the desert beyond. It is one of the most beautiful canyons in Israel – its jagged rock walls are dotted with a series of mysterious caves. In ancient times, these caves served as humble abodes for religious monks. Nowadays, birds nest in the caves, swooping across the steep gorge on gentle gusts of wind.
Nahal Tekoa begins just outside of Jerusalem and snakes through the desert. In the wintertime, rain washes through the canyon, reaching Nahal Darja and eventually spilling into the Dead Sea.
About 20 minutes from Jerusalem, one can hike through Nahal Tekoa to experience its deep beauty and see some interesting sites along the way.
Hiking the Trail
There are several ways to hike through Nahal Tekoa. One of the easiest and most popular trails begins within the settlement of Tekoa. The hike starts in a small parking lot, then proceeds along the black trail down into the valley. The trail can be a bit steep at times, but the impressive views more than make up for the difficulty. Almost immediately, jaw-dropping scenery becomes the order of the day, as the narrow canyon snakes back and forth between mountains.
The trail passes by several small caves, some of which are built up with stone doorways and little ledges inside. It’s worth it to stop in on these caves and peek out at the canyon, imagining what life must have been like for residents of Nahal Tekoa long ago.
After a short walk along the black trail, more adventurous hikers can follow a breakaway trail up to the famous Haritoun Cave. Haritoun Cave (named after the monk Haritoun who lived in Nahal Tekoa in the 4th century) is one of the longest and most impressive cave systems in Israel. To thoroughly explore the depths of the cave, a licensed guide is required. But hikers at Nahal Tekoa can climb up over a few boulders and enter the largest chambers of Haritoun.
After visiting the cave, the main trail continues towards a rock ledge and a small spring. The spring is a great place to stop for a cup of coffee or a picnic. Fresh water flows into the spring pool year-round. Those looking for a quick adrenaline boost can take a quick dunk in the cold water before turning back towards the parking lot.
A Bit of History
While hiking through Nahal Tekoa, the flat-topped mountain of Herodion looms large just above the canyon. Herodion was once home to King Herod the Great’s palace which looked out over Jerusalem during the Second Temple period. King Herod’s tomb is also located on top of the mountain. In later times, Jewish rebels used the palace to hide and escape from the Romans. Nowadays, one can climb through layers of history at Herodion National Park, visiting royal chambers and underground tunnels on one visit.
Tekoa itself was home to Amos the prophet. In the 1st century, Bar Kochba rebels hid in caves within Tekoa canyon. In the 4th century, the famous monk Haritoun built his third monastery in Nahal Tekoa. The Karstic caves of the canyon served as a place of quiet solitude for this religious man and his many followers.
In modern times, the Jewish settlement of Tekoa sits above the canyon, and is home to 850 families.
A Different Approach to Nahal Tekoa
There are other ways to hike at Nahal Tekoa. A longer, one-way trail begins in a forest at one edge of the canyon, and travels along past the ruins of the ancient monastery, towards Haritoun Cave, and up through olive groves to exit the canyon. There is also a path which leads all the way from Herodion National Park down into the canyon and up to the other side.
These harder trails are better suited to more serious hikers, or those hiking with a guide.
Fact File
Go: Nahal Tekoa and Herodion National Park
Who: The short trail at Nahal Tekoa is suitable for hikers of all ages. Kids will especially love peeking into the little caves along the way. This trail is not handicapped accessible, and it is not well suited for people who are unsteady on their feet or those who have a fear of heights.
Herodion National Park is suitable for people of all ages and skill levels.
What to Bring: Water, food, a hat, and a head lamp. Hiking poles can be useful for the uphills and downhills, especially for seniors. Since this hike is located in Judea and Samaria, it’s worthwhile to hike in a group or with a guide for safety purposes.
Where: Nahal Tekoa is located in Gush Etzion, about 20 minutes from Jerusalem. The entrance to the short trail is inside the settlement of Tekoa. In this part of Israel, it’s a good idea to take safety precautions when you hike, such as hiking with a group, a guide, a dog, or some other form of protection.
How Long: The short trail at Nahal Tekoa is about 1 kilometer in each direction and takes about 2 hours to complete. A visit to nearby Herodion can be expected to take 1-2 hours.
Planning: Nahal Tekoa is a free entry site. There are no bathrooms or other facilities on the trail. Herodion National Park, located nearby, is a paid entry site with bathrooms and a small store. It is open from 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM during the week and 8:00 AM to 3:00 PM on Fridays. There is an entrance fee of 29 NIS per adult and 15 NIS per child.
How to Get There: To get to Nahal Tekoa, follow the Waze links in this post. To get to Herodion, enter Herodion National Park into Waze.
How to Hike Nahal Tekoa: Follow the black trail until you reach a white/clear/white breakaway trail. This trail leads up to Haritoun Cave. After visiting the cave, return to the black trail and hike out as far as you like, then back the way you came. For other hike options, see this post.
When: This hike is especially lovely during the cooler months. The entire area becomes awash in greenery once the winter rains begin. During the month of November, the terrain remains dramatic and golden.
Related Articles
Related
The Trip of A Lifetime: Panama City
I have a great brother. When I told him I was planning to retire he gave me the surprise of a lifetime. He let me use his miles to go on a trip of my dreams. I had to choose between Madrid, Barcelona, Lisbon, London or Panama. I chose Panama, why? It is close to New...
Where in the World Is…Bhutan?
Like stepping into a time machine, the first glance around the landscapes of Bhutan can stir the senses in a dizzying array of ancient charm, history and awe. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains exists the mysterious “Thunder Dragon Kingdom”. On the...
Culinary Quickies March 2023
Reader Question: How do I make clear chicken broth/stock? Answer: Let’s start by defining both stock and broth. According to classically trained chefs, stock is made from the bones with a few vegetables to season the liquid which when cooled will take on a gelatinous...